Back to the North

After our birthday party on the North side of Cyprus, Demetris really wanted to return to see some sites he remembered as a child of 5-6 years old.  For Greek Cypriots, there are many emotions that are raised with a trip to the occupied Turkish side.  Since the borders became more open, there has been some controversy around Greeks traveling to the occupied side and spending money there.  They don't want to feel as if they are supporting the economy in any way.  There are several casinos on the Turkish side, which aren't allowed on the Greek side, and many younger people want to travel there just for the casinos.  This is still frowned upon by many Greeks.  We did our best to keep spending to the minimum, packing a lunch and snacks and avoiding the shops.  We did have to pay for access to the beach, beach chairs and the umbrella.  There was a sign at the beach that said bringing in outside food and drinks was prohibited, but I guess we didn't notice that.  Anyway, we also drove around the town of Kyrenia, through the town center which is located by the water front.  Demetris was hoping to find a beach that he remembered and we were lucky enough to stumble on it.  Remember, he hadn't been there since he was six so it's not like he knew exactly how to get there, just that things looked familiar.  We spent the rest of the day at the beach and then took a drive by the famous "five fingers" mountain before heading home.  Demetris has more places he wants to visit on that side, but since we are in the final month of the pregnancy I think that will have to wait until our next visit to Cyprus.

The Five Fingers Mountain

Mosque

Funny to see this sign so close to home

Don't tip!

35 weeks pregnant

Loving the beach

Look out Sofia.  The large rock formation helps keep the water calm.

Nice view of the mountains (and a huge Turkish monument) from the beach.

The Dark Side

A couple of weeks ago, Alex received an invitation for a birthday party from a girl at his school.  Since I had never heard of the place of the party, I innocently asked Demetris, "Do you know where the Aroma Cafe is?"  He said, "No." I followed up with, "It says it is in Kyrenia.  Where's that?" At this point Demetris almost dropped his fork and said, "Lori, Kyrenia is on the NORTH side."  Sure enough the party was to be held on the Turkish side of the island.  Demetris has not been on that side of the island since the Turks invaded and occupied it when he was a small child.  He has wanted to go there but knew it would stir some unpleasant feelings for him.  I thought attending a birthday party would be an easy way to go on that side without being totally immersed in it.  Plus, there would be lots of other people around so Demetris wouldn't be able to complain as much.  The party was held yesterday.  The parents of the birthday girl put quite a bit of effort into making it a smooth crossing for us.  There were five families that needed to cross the border and they hired a minibus to transport us, and the dad met us at the crossing point.  Usually, to take our car across the border we would need to buy insurance for about $65 a day.  We parked our car on the Greek side and then walked through the border.  Demetris was able to use his Cypriot ID card to cross and the rest of us presented our passports.  Instead of stamping the passports, they stamp a piece of paper with our names on it because the Greek side could refuse us entry if we have a stamp from the Turkish side.  It wasn't like they did a careful check of us anyway.  Demetris handed the guy all of our passports at once and he didn't even look at us to confirm it was the same people. As we crossed over we were greeted by a large sign stating, "Happy to say I am a Turk."  Not exactly what we were thinking.  Demetris remembered much of the landscape that we passed on the way there, but now it is dotted by many Turkish flags and statues.  We had a 20-30 minute drive to reach the party.  The party itself was very nice.  It was held in the yard of a coffee shop with plenty of grass for the kids to run in and a bouncy house to keep them busy. We enjoyed the company of other parents from the school that we had not had a chance to get to know much before.  There was good food and the weather was very pleasant.  At the end of the party the bus took us back to the crossing point.  Overall, a good experience and now Demetris is ready to try exploring the north side a bit more on our own. 

Excited for the bus ride

The border crossing

Proof that Demetris was there

Checking out his goodie bag

Sofia always loves a bounce house

One of several  Turkish monuments we passed on the way

Greek Easter Weekend

Greek Easter was this past weekend and the whole family went to the village to celebrate. We mostly stayed around the house this year and did a lot of eating. The Easter church service begins at 11:00 p.m. and ends at midnight. People pretty much show up whenever they want, though, and we went around 11:30. Again this year many large fireworks were being set off outside of the church. Sofia absolutely hated the loud noises and even though Alex had thought it sounded like a cool idea, he changed his mind after a few minutes and asked to go home. When we arrived back at the house Sofia declared, "That was the worstest baptism ever".  Funny because her baptism was scheduled for the day after Easter. Since the church service is basically the day before Easter, there isn't much to do on the actual day except eat some more. The Easter bunny is not a tradition. Instead, family members give the kids chocolates.
On to the baptism. In the Greek Orthodox church, the godparents, Uncle Themis and Aunt Maria, are responsible for all of the preparations.  There is much more to do, and buy, prior to the service than in my Protestant church.  This includes a white dress, shoes, a cross necklace, blanket and towel to wrap the child in after she gets wet, some special undergarments for under the dress, a large candle, and favors to hand out.  Plus, the baptism is not part of a regular church service since it lasts nearly one hour.  The priest was nice and left her underwear on to keep her from being too embarrassed when he dipped her in the water.  The water was probably only about six inches deep anyway.  We weren't sure how she would react to all of it, but she didn't cry or get upset once.  She was a bit shy, but went along with everything.  Afterwards, we had another large meal and a cake to celebrate. I asked Sofia what she thought of the baptism and she said, "He has a very small bathtub and he should put some waves (the non-slip things you put in a tub) in it so people don't slip."  She told Demetris, "That silly priest.  He put oil in the water instead of soap.  That just makes you all oily." I'm not really sure of the purpose of the oil either, but it is a tradition.  She looked beautiful in her white dress.

The priest reads some prayers at the beginning of the service

Preparing for the actual baptism

After the baptism the godparents help dress her in her white clothes

Looking pretty

Back at he village house.  I'm holding the large candle used.

A Little of This and A Little of That

Can't say we have taken too many adventures in the last couple of weeks.  We have had several rainy afternoons that have limited our small road trips.  Two weekends ago we went to a new to us beach area located outside of Larnaca and referred to as Saint George beach due to the close proximity of it to the church of the same name.  It is more like a cove area with large rock formations jutting into the water.  Alex had a great time mastering some rock climbing and Sofia enjoyed wading knee deep into the water.  They also worked together to use the sand to make a "cement" wall.  I collected many shells since they aren't that easy to find on the beaches here.  We used them for a craft project later in the week.  If it seems we spend a lot of time at various beaches, we certainly try!  The coastline in Cyprus is beautiful and varies with the different regions of the island.  We are trying to take advantage of it all while we are here.  After the beach we also stopped briefly to see the church.  It is very well maintained with lovely gardens. 
In other news, Alex is thrilled that two boys have moved into the house next door to us. They have played together every day for the past week and a half that they have been here.  Finally he has some boys his age to play with on a regular basis.  As a bonus, they speak primarily English.  It has been really funny to me to hear Alex translating between these boys and his cousins who speak mostly Greek.  Just goes to show how quickly he has learned the Greek language. 
This past Sunday was the memorial day for Grandma Electra's sister.  Her sister, Demetris' godmother, was killed in a car accident when in her early twenties.  In the Greek Orthodox church it is customary to honor the deceased each year on the anniversary of their death.  A close family member prepares a special type of food to take to the church the night before the memorial along with special loaves of bread.  The dish is a combination of blanched almonds, golden raisins, pomegranate seeds, sesame seeds, and cooked wheat.  I'm probably leaving something out.  The ingredients are arranged in a a pattern of the cross and family members stand outside of the church at the conclusion of the ceremony and hand out small bags of the food.  During the ceremony the priest will pray for those that have died. 
Today I saw my first snake since being in Cyprus.  Cyprus is somewhat famous for having a large snake population.  Not my favorite attribute of the island, but since it has taken this long for me to see one I can't complain too much.  I was taking a walk at the Athalassa park and luckily saw it just as it was slithering away from the path.  Don't think I will be taking that trail for awhile.
I saved the best news for last as my pregnancy continues to progress smoothly.  She is growing at a healthy rate and I am still feeling fine.  Today we actually moved a crib into our bedroom.  It is still plenty early, but I think grandma was anxious to do it.  Seems so odd to have a crib here!  I'm sure the time will be here before we know it.  

At St.George beach

View of St. George coastline

Shell tree ornaments we made with the shells I collected

A closer view of some of the shell ornaments

The dish Grandma Electra made for the memorial service

Happy Easter

The Easter Bunny paid a visit to our house last night.  The kids were excited to find many chocolates left by the bunny.  We had made some paper mache Easter eggs for the bunny to hide and somehow he managed to put chocolate inside those eggs!  We had to cut them open to get the candy out.  After the egg hunt, Sofia declared it, "The best Easter ever."  Of course she is only three and doesn't have much experience to draw upon, but still nice to know she had fun.  The Greek Easter is still a few weeks away so we tried to do more of a traditional American-style Easter today.  After breakfast, I started cooking for our Easter lunch. The menu was pork roast, roasted potatoes, spinach salad, and homemade crescent rolls.  Diana, Michalis, and Tatiana joined us and following lunch we had a Coke cake for dessert.  Cypriots sure do love Coke so when I saw this recipe I had to make it for the family.  How lucky we are to have this special time with family and to be expecting a new addition.  We are blessed. 

Sofia with her paper mache eggs

Alex with a lollipop nose and his treats from the bunny

The Crisis

The country of Cyprus breathed a collective sigh of relief today as the country avoided bankruptcy with a deal with the troika.  I won't pretend to be an expert on any of the details.  The family members who have spoken to me about the issue seem to agree that it was a necessary deal.  It will be painful for them to implement and the impact will likely be felt for years to come.  However, many Cypriots view this as a new beginning.  It is a chance for them to clean up the financial and government sectors and hopefully will lead to a stronger economy in the future.  Let's hope that Cyprus will regain it's strength soon.
Ironically, at a time when the country is seeking help from others, Cyprus celebrated Greek Independence Day today.  It is a national holiday with schools and most businesses closed.  The banks were closed all last week due to the crisis and the need to prevent a run on the banks, but will reopen this week.  The kids and I went to a parade in Nicosia with Diana, Tatiana, and Michalis.  Michalis is a news manager for a television station and has put in plenty of overtime with the crisis.  Most of the local high schools (maybe all) were represented in the parade.  Students marched in matching uniforms and many also had some drummers or a small band.  There were a few other groups as well, such as the boy/girl scouts and the APOEL soccer club.  Sorry no pictures today.

Cyclops Sea Cave

The Cyclops Sea Cave is located in Protaras and can be accessed by a path from my favorite beach, Konnos.  We had seen the signs for the trail before, but today decided to actually see for ourselves what it was like.  The weather was the perfect temperature for a short hike, much better than it would be under the blazing summer sun.  Not a lot of shade trees around.  The hike is about two and a half kilometers each way on a semi-rocky path.  The kids and Demetris all chose a walking stick before we left.  The scenery is beautiful as it follows the coastline with many interesting plants along the way.  The cave is somewhat small, but large enough for us to walk through.  Actually, Demetris and I couldn't stand up straight in most of it, but still fun to look at it.  Alex and Sofia walked both ways without complaint and were rewarded at the end with a small piece of chocolate.  Those little legs did a good job of climbing on rocks and navigating the narrow parts of the path.

At the start with their walking sticks

Cool rocks along the path

View from the path

In the cave

"I'm a cross," she said

The entrance to the cave

Such clear water

The boy's team